| Heat the oven to 450°F | |||||
| 1 Tbsp lard | grease a 12-in skillet; heat in the oven until smoking | swirl fat, pour in batter; bake 15 min | cut 6 wedges, serve hot | ||
| 1½ cups cornmeal | sift together | mix thoroughly | whisk in | ||
| 1 tsp baking powder | |||||
| 1 tsp baking soda | |||||
| ½ tsp salt | |||||
| 1 tsp sugar | |||||
| 1 large egg | whisk frothy, whisk in buttermilk | ||||
| 1½ cups buttermilk | |||||
| 2 Tbsp butter | melt over low | ||||
Adapted from Matt Lee and Ted Lee, The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook (W. W. Norton, 2006), p. 497. The Lees got it from Mindy Merrell, who spent twelve years in the Martha White test kitchen.
The trick is the pan, not the chemistry. A batch sized for a 9-inch skillet goes into a 12-inch one, so the bread bakes only about ½ inch thick. That doubles the crust and leaves a thin, moist middle.
The fat must smoke before the batter goes in. The sizzle sets the bottom crust at once, and the edges fry in the lard.
Yellow or white cornmeal both work. Stone-ground gives the strongest corn flavor. The book serves it with sorghum butter.